A Secluded Secret in Italy
Chandan Singh
| 23-05-2025
· Travel team
Known as Mal di Ventre or "Coscia di Donna" on historical maps, this hidden gem is a protected paradise that is a must-see for lovers of the Sinis Peninsula in Sardinia.
The coastline, bathed in sun and scented with helichrysum and wild fennel, boasts breathtakingly indescribable sea colors that leave visitors breathless as their gaze extends to the horizon.
Often framed by pink flamingos flying majestically overhead, this coastline is steeped in a rich history that can be traced step by step from Cabras with its Spanish towers, through Tharros, to this island that holds tales of pirates and conquerors, a true heritage of Italy.

The Meaning Behind Mal di Ventre

The name Mal di Ventre likely stems from a mistranslation of the Sardinian term Malu Entu, which means "bad wind" and is connected to the strong wind that shapes the olive trees' foliage and sweeps across Sardinia for days on end.
This wind, known as maestrale, churns the sea, offering moments of calm in secluded corners of the coast where everything falls silent. Historical hints from ancient maps suggest that in the 1300s, the island was named "Colfia di doana," which translates to "thigh of a woman."

History of Mal di Ventre Island

Mal di Ventre Island has been frequented since the Neolithic period, evidenced by archaeological finds such as arrows. It is home to the only nuraghe in all the minor islands, with remnants that are open to visitors. Additionally, the ruins of a collapsed house dating back to the 2nd century AD can also be explored, along with various sunken ships from different eras in its surroundings.

Location and Access

Situated in the Sardinian Sea, Mal di Ventre Island is 9 kilometers from the mainland of Sardinia. It is part of the Marine Protected Area of the Sinis Peninsula Isola di Mal di Ventre, within the municipality of Cabras.

How to Reach Mal di Ventre Island?

To access the island, one can book a two-engine zodiac boat from the Mari Ermi beach at different times of the day. Opting for the early morning departure allows visitors to enjoy the tranquility of the still-deserted island and explore it leisurely during the cooler hours. The round-trip transfer costs €25, with reduced rates for children aged 8 to 15 (€15) and complimentary fares for those under 2.

Exploring the Island

Mal di Ventre Island, devoid of inhabitants and services, is entirely accessible for exploration. While some areas are prohibited for swimming, the island is divided into three protection zones - A, B, and C - each with varying degrees of environmental conservation measures.
Visitors are advised to follow the skipper's directions as reaching one end of the island from the other may not always be straightforward due to the low vegetation cover and the island's elongated shape.

What to Bring?

Essentials for the excursion include appropriate footwear, water, food, sunshade, and sun protection. As the island lacks facilities, visitors, especially those with children, should anticipate and cater to all their needs. While cellular connectivity is available, the suggestion is to relish the unique surroundings and disconnect momentarily upon landing on the island.

Best Times to Visit

It is advisable to avoid weekends and consider embarking on excursions during the less crowded months of the year to fully appreciate the island's unspoiled beauty. Despite its distance of 9 kilometers, Mal di Ventre Island can get incredibly crowded in August, diminishing its allure. Hence, booking the early morning transfers is recommended for an undisturbed experience.

Family-Friendly Exploration

Mal di Ventre Island is suitable for children and can be explored fully, including the shoreline. Closed-toe sandals are recommended to protect against typical Mediterranean vegetation like stones and thorns during the visit.