Friends, craving Greece beyond crowds? Evia delivers—mountain spines, river-cut gorges, and beaches where the road fades to gravel and tents meet turquoise. It’s close to Athens yet rugged enough to feel truly remote.

Use this field-tested plan—costs, times, and routes—to unlock ancient theaters, cliff-backed coves, hot springs, and scenic drives without guesswork.

Getting There

From Athens, buses to Chalkida (Halkida) take 1–1.5 hours ($7–$10). Drivers cross via the New High Bridge; continue south or north for coast and highlands. For the quickest hop to the east coast, take the Oropos–Eretria ferry (20 min; foot $3–$5, car $12–$18). A small SUV is wise—many coastal roads turn to dirt.

Ancient Eretria

Walk a compact archaeological zone with palaces, a gymnasium, mosaicked houses, and a star attraction: a 5th-century BCE theater built on a man-made hill. Allow 60–90 minutes; open most days 9:00–16:00 (seasonal). Combo tickets with the museum run $6–$9. Wear sturdy shoes—the stone seating and paths are uneven.

Eretria Museum

Across town, the museum showcases local finds: early terracottas, black-figure vases, and sculptural fragments. It’s small but polished—budget 45 minutes. Tickets $3–$5; air-conditioned, with restrooms. Pair it with a stroll along Eretria’s seafront promenade for lunch and gelato.

Karababa Castle

On the Boeotian side opposite Chalkida, this hilltop fort delivers wide screens of the city, the Strait of Euripus, and piney headlands. Entry is typically free or under $3; plan 30–45 minutes near sunset for golden light. Bring water—there’s little shade at the top.

Dirfi Drive

The serpentine road around Mount Dirfi (1,742 m) is a highlight itself: switchbacks, fir forest, and pocket viewpoints. Expect 1.5–2 hours with photo stops from Chalkida to the northern slopes. Avoid heavy rain; curves can be slick.

Drimona Falls

Nestled at ~620 m elevation, Drimona’s cascade tumbles into a clear, emerald pool. Even in summer’s low flow it’s photogenic; spring snowmelt brings volume. A stone stairway leads down (10–15 minutes each way). Parking is free; allow 45–60 minutes total. A small kiosk often sells refreshments in season.

Edipsos Springs

In Loutra Edipsou, warm mineral water seeps into the sea, forming natural rock pools you can soak in for free. Bring water shoes and a towel; enter at calmer points and mind currents. Spa day passes at nearby facilities start around $20–$35 if you prefer structured pools.

Chiliadou Beach

A dramatic arc of pebbles and sand under limestone cliffs on the wild east coast. The mountain drive from Chalkida takes ~1 hour 15 minutes; last stretches are twisty. Water can be choppy and drops off fast—great swimmers only on wavy days. Arrive early for parking; one or two seasonal tavernas supply simple meals and shade.

Kalamos Beach

Sunbed sets sometimes come free with a drink from a café; otherwise carry an umbrella. Some visitors camp—use designated spots and pack out everything.

Thapsa Beach

Evia’s ultimate “earn-it” cove: 10 km of dirt road from Koutourla; a 4×4 is strongly recommended. No facilities—bring shade, water, snacks, and a trash bag. White pebbles, glassy blue water, and amphitheater hills reward the effort. Time half a day minimum; check your fuel and daylight before descending.

Dimosari Gorge

A classic half-day trail over old shepherd paths: oaks, plane trees, rock passages, and small cascades. Start from the Mount Ochi area and descend to Kaliani Beach for a cooling dip. Allow 4–5 hours with breaks; hikers should carry 2 L of water, sun protection, and grippy shoes. Arrange a pickup or walk back (steep).

Euripus Strait

Stand by Chalkida’s waterfront to watch the tidal current switch several times a day—a rare Mediterranean quirk that can run up to ~12 km/h. The sleek High Bridge (cable-stayed) frames sunset photos; the Old Bridge near the old town lets you watch eddies up close. Free, any time.

Kakokefali Light

A short pine-scented walk north of Chalkida reaches the 1886 lighthouse on Bad Head Cape. It’s one of Greece’s few manned lights and a serene spot for views across the channel. Go mornings or golden hour; carry a hat and water.

Stay & Tips

Base in Chalkida for bridges and nightlife, Eretria for ferries and beaches, or Edipsos for hot springs. Midrange rooms run $70–$130 in summer; shoulder seasons are cheaper. Car rental $35–$55/day; fill up before remote drives. ATMs cluster in towns—carry some cash. Signal can fade on the east coast; download maps offline. Always pack out trash, especially at wild beaches.

Conclusion

Evia blends ancient theaters, pine-cool gorges, and cliff-ringed coves into one adventure-ready island—close to Athens, far from ordinary. Which route tempts you first: mountain switchbacks, a tide-twisting strait, or that hidden blue cove?